Kurzbericht Namibia im Mai 2009

We learned so much from the forum which made our trip in Namibia so unforgettable. I know that I can’t contribute much because of my poor German writing. However, I do hope the following brief feedback could also give some people some ideas when they are planning their holiday in Namibia.

Basic Info
Date: May 3 ~ May 23, 2009
Vehicle from Budget: Nissan Hardbody, double cabin with one roof tent and fully camping equipment / petrol / 2,400cc / 140hp
Total mileage: 3947km
Fuel: 588.62 liter (14.92liter/100km)

Please note that all the following driving time was not pure driving time. We usually spent much time for the lunch break and photo shooting (finding the way, of course😊 ).


May 3, 2009
Windhoek Airport - Gastfarm Elisenheim
10:34 ~ 15:57 (food purchasing, lunch break incl.)
Airport – B6 – B1, 62.67km

Gastfarm Elisenheim
- N$660/double room, breakfast incl.
- Nice, clean room.
- Delicious dinner (N$100/pp) and very rich breakfast.
- Credit card accepted.


May 4, 2009
WDH – Okonjima Lodge (Omboroko Campsite)
09:17~12:32 (lunch break incl.)
B1 - Private road, 219.58 km

Okonjima Lodge (Omboroko Campsite)
- N$450/pp (fire wood, AfriCat Welfare Project incl.)
- with water, electricity, warm shower (heated by gas heater, very warm!)
- It’s a very nice campsite with lovely bush toilet and shower.
- Reservation only. No walk-in.May 5, 2009
Okonjima Lodge - Waterberg
08:16~10:31
B1 – C22 – D2512, 107.07km

Waterberg Wilderness (Campsite)
- N$140pp (fire wood incl.)
- Campsite with water and warm shower, but no electricity.
- Bathroom/Toilet was very clean. Nice campsite.
- Credit card accepted.


May 6~7, 2009
Warterberg – Etoscha/Namutoni
07:58 ~16:11 (food purchasing, lunch break incl.)
D2512 - C22 - B1 - C38, 425.2km

Etoscha/Namutoni campsite
- N$200 + N$100/pp
- Campsite with water, electricity and warm shower.
- The “greenest” campsite in Etoscha.
- First come, first service. You arrive earlier, you can choice a better site by yourself.


May 8, 2009
Etoscha/Namutoni - Etoscha/Halali
09:10~16:50 (animals viewing, lunch break incl.)
131.38km

Etoscha/Halali campsite
- N$200 + N$100/pp
- Campsite with water, electricity and warm shower.
- It was the emptiest campsite (less than 1/3 was used) in Etoscha although the reception told me it was “fully booked”.
- Early birds don’t get worms. The front desk appoints a campsite for you. It might not be a proper one for you.

We were not very late, but got to share the space with another 4 groups in a closed campsite even we mentioned that we need the space for one big camper, one jeep and one ground tent. We asked for another bigger site, but the front desk said that the whole Halali was “fully booked” and it’s not possible to get us another site.

After few minutes’ communication, the front desk finally found two sites for us, but actually one of them was already occupied. We had no choice but took another one.

We walked around at night and noticed that less 1/3 of campsite were in used. The closed site (the one we didn’t take ) which was designed for 5 groups was totally full. It seemed the front desk sent all the people who were later than us to that small site.


May 9~10, 2009
Etoscha/Halali - Etoscha/ Okaukuejo
10:14~17:00 (animals viewing, lunch break incl.)
138.28km

Etoscha/Okaukuejo campsite
- N$200 + N$100/pp
- With water, electricity and warm shower. Not every campsite has its own water tape and electricity. Some of campsites have to get them from their neighbors.
- The best management within 3 campsites in Etoscha.
- Good buffet costs N$150/pp (better food than Halali)
- First come, fist service. The front desk will give you some choices according to your wish. You choose the one you prefer after you check all of them.


May 11~12, 2009
Etoscha / Okaukuejo - Twyfelfontein
07:40 ~16:59 (brunch and food purchasing in Ojtio incl.)
C38 - C39 - D2612, 365.62km

Aabadi Mountain Camp
- N$65/pp (fire wood incl.)
- Campsite with water, but no electricity.
- Warm shower in the bush shower only available during the day because the water is heated by the nature sun heat.
- Campsite was simple but very clean and lovely.
- Cash only.Bush shower in Aabadi


May 13~15, 2009
Twyfelfontein - Swakopmund
7:46 ~14:15 (2 hrs lunch break in Henties Bay and 40 min Land Surfing incl.)
D2612 - C35 - D2319 - C35 - C34, 314.4km

Alte Brücke
- Camp: N$250//2p, N$50/pp for extra people
- Every campsite with its own private bathroom/WC (very clean).
- Campsite with water, electricity, good BBQ facility. It’s a luxury campsite.
- It’s very chilly because of high humidity (ca. 10 degree C at night) and winding in middle May.
- Cash only.


May 16, 2009
Swakopmund - Rostock Ritz Lodge
08:12 ~ 14:21 (lunch break incl.)
B2 - C14 - Vogelfederberg - Gobabeb - Homeb - Zebra Pan - C14, 320km

Rostock Ritz Desert Lodge
- Camp: N$120/pp
- Campsite with water, no electricity. (Electricity is only on the BBQ terrace.)
- None of us took shower. No idea about the "warm shower".
- It’s obvious the owner focuses on the lodge not on the campsite. I wouldn’t say the campsite was bad, but it did need some maintenance.
- Credit card accepted.


May 17, 2009
Rostock Ritz Camp – Sossusvlei
07:36 ~11:08 (breakfast break in Solitair incl.)
C14 - C19 - C27, 138.16km
- a newly open bakery in Solitair offered good apple pie.

NWR Sossus Dune Lodge
- N$4,400/Double room with Lunch, Dinner, Breakfast and Park fee
- The room was surly very luxury in such remote area.
- The lunch and dinner were delicious, but at so small portion.
- The breakfast buffet was quite poor compare to such expansive room rate.


May 18, 2009
Sossusvlei – Tiras Mountains
10:20 ~ 16:00
C27-D707-Private road (20km), 248km

Ranch Koiimasis
- Camp: N$125/pp
- Every campsite has its own lovely bathroom and toilet.
- Warm water was heated by solar panel.
- Campsite with water, good BBQ facility, but no electricity.
- very nice environment, very clean campsite.
- Cash only.


May 19, 2009
Tiras Mountains – Keetmanshoop
08:53 ~ 15:15 (Lunch break, stop by Keetmanshoop incl.)
D707 - C13 - B4 - B1 - M29, 375.06km

Quivertree Forest Rest Camp
- N$130/pp (Camp N$80 + Entrance fee for quivertree forest and giant’s play ground N$50)
- Campsite with water, electricity.
- Simple, but very clean bathroom and toilet.
- Warm shower was heatd by solar panel, but very hot even after sunset.
- Cheetah feeding at 16:00 (no extra charge).


May 20~21, 2009
Keetmanshoop– Mariental
10:05 – 13:42 (lunch break, stop by Mariental incl.)
M29 - B1- C20 - D1268, 294km

Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch
- Camp: N$125/pp(fire wood incl.)
- Campsite with private bathroom/toilet. Clean, comfortable.
- 24 hr hot water heated by gas heater (very hot).
- Price includes daily fire wood and daily afternoon coffee with nice cakes. (our receptionist didn’t tell us, but the owner told us when we met him. Don’t miss your free coffee and cakes.)
- The whole ranch itself was worth to walk around. The whole environment was taken care very well.May 22, 2009
Mariental – Windhoek (Auas Game Lodge)
10:04 ~ 14:00 (lunch break, got lost incl.)
D1463 - B1 - B6, 239km

Auas Game Lodge
- N$1,290/ Double room with breakfast and dinner
- Late check-out: N$250/room
- Room was big and clean.
- Dinner was very delicious, but at small portion. Breakfast buffet was very rich.
- Credit card accepted.



What would we do when we do the trip again?

1. Don’t rent the car from Budget.
The jeep itself was OK except the weak engine, but the camping equipment was in a very bad condition.

When we took over the car, we only checked all the equipments on the list were there. We didn’t really check the condition seriously. After that, we noticed that some were defective; some were in so bad condition….


2. Stay in downtown at last night and get the car back in WDH rather than Airport in the next day.
There is no fuel station in the airport. The fuel tank would never be full when we get the car back to the airport. The car rental company charged this fuel cost at whatever price they wanted. In order to avoid the discussion about the fuel cost, it maybe better to fill the fuel tank and get the car back in the downtown.


3. Don’t take the marine cruise in the wrong season.
It was simply the wrong season. We spent money and time, but saw actually almost nothing. However, be honest, the lunch was great. (Laramon Tour: N$450/pp)


4. Don’t stay in NWR Sossus Dune Lodge.
It’s simply too expansive. What they offered was not really equal to the room price. I believe there are many choices outside of park offer the same quality accommodation at reasonable price.


5. Don’t take the San Guided Walk in Intu Afrika Kalahari Game Reserve.
It costs N$245/pp, but it’s not worth at all. The lodge had a Bushmen project, but the guide/interpreter told us that project was already ended last year. There is no !Xoo Bushmen village anymore.

The whole walk was less than 40 min. and actually was worse than a show. Two San people didn’t demonstrate how to set the trap, how to set fire. Everything was only done by “talk”. It was kind of speech held by the guide/interpreter.

Why didn’t the San people do the demonstration? The guide/interpreter said that they didn’t have the correct rope for making the trap, no right stone and wood the set the fire…., etc. Of course, there was also no San village to visit…..

Yes, I know it was a wrong place for knowing San people. I did it just because one of my friends has joined the walk before and was happy about it. However, what I got was total different and so much less from what my friends told me.

We didn’t go to Bushmen land this time because of the tight schedule. I do hope we could make it again if we have another chance.




Unfortunately, the lovely journey was ended. My husband and I both wish that we could visit Namibia again in the near future.

Thanks again to everyone in this forum!


Shireen

Hallo Shireen,

I am so glad you enjoyed your stay in Namibia!

Many thanks for telling us about your various experiences. Next time if you are still looking for a nice bushmen community with motivated people, you must go to the Treesleeper Camp in Tsintsabis. It's near Tsumeb. There you wil learn how to survive in the bush.

Best regards

Annick

Hallo Annick,

Yes, my husband, our friends and I did enjoy so much in Namibia. The land is so beautiful. The people are so friendly and helpful. The animals of course are so amazing....

Thanks so much for the tip about Bushmen! I write it down in my guide book and certainly go there for our next Namibia trip!

viele Gruesse


Shireen




ANNICK schrieb:

Hallo Shireen,

I am so glad you enjoyed your stay in Namibia!

Many thanks for telling us about your various experiences. Next time if you are still looking for a nice bushmen community with motivated people, you must go to the Treesleeper Camp in Tsintsabis. It's near Tsumeb. There you wil learn how to survive in the bush.

Best regards

Annick

We joined some tours during our stay in Namibia. Here is the short feedback:


May 04, 2009
AfriCat Welfare Project in Okonjima Lodge: Cost is included in the accommodationIt usually starts at 3pm, but we waited for a French couple who arrived late. Finally we hit the road at almost 4pm. It was actually kind of late. After viewing a leopard, called “wawu”(?), from a safe platform for 30 min., it was getting dark.

We drove around in the rehabilitation park for around 20 min., but didn’t find any cheetah. We didn’t have luck. That’s it. After that, we had another driving in a close quarter where some cheetahs were kept there because they were unable to survive in the wild.

It’s a very informative tour except it was a little bit short. We started too late. When it’s dark, you see nothing. The ranger was very knowledgeable and kind. We learned much not only about leopards, cheetahs, the work of AfriCat, but also the way between human and animals.

I know there were lions in Okonjima, but we were not invited to view the lions in the morning. Was it because we were campers not the guests in the lodge? I don’t know.


May 05, 2009
Afternoon drive in Waterberg Wildness: N$240/pp (drinks incl.)The highlight of this drive was the white rhino. We were lucky to see these two white rhinos and also got very close to them. Except white rhinos, the rest of the drive was just ok.

The guide spoke both German and English. He was very friendly and knowledgeable as well.


May 06, 2009
Morning drive in Etoscha/Namutoni: N$500/pp (light breakfast & drinks during the drive incl.)

It started at 5am. When it was still dark, we only saw the little spots (the reflection from the animals’ eyes), not even shapes. We could see how it was going on when it was getting bright.

The highlight of this tour was the lions around Koinachas waterhole. One female and three male were there. Our guide said that we were lucky.

When we booked the morning drive, the front desk didn’t tell us about the light breakfast until we asked for the information about the breakfast. We were asked to inform the restaurant by ourselves if we wanted the breakfast there. However, no one in the restaurant knew about the breakfast for the morning drive guests. It was kind of chaotic. After a talk with front desk again, the breakfast was finally arranged.

Another couple in the morning drive didn’t have the breakfast because they were not told about it.

The breakfast was simple. Anyway, it’s good to have a cup of warm coffee/tea/chocolate and some toasts/cookies at 4:30am before sitting in an open jeep in the cold morning for the coming 2~3hrs.

This was the only drive we took in Etoscha. It wasn’t bad. We just thought we could do it by ourselves in the next few mornings and afternoons:

Tsumcor waterhole, ca. 2pm, ca. 20 elephants.
Rietfontein waterhole, ca 12:00, ca. 25 elephants.
Leeubron waterhole, ca. 7am, lions (1 male, 4 female, 4 babys)
There were surly many many other animals everywhere in Etoscha.

By the way, I personally like Halali waterhole and Okaukuejo waterhole because of the better view.


May 12, 2009
Afternoon drive offered by Aabadi Mountain Camp: N$200/pp
Twyfelfontein rock art, Organ Pipes, Burnt Mountain and Desert Elephants viewing.

Mr. Jeroen Verhoef is a very motivated person with lots knowledge and sense of hummer. He asked us to follow him to trace the desert elephant in his campsite in the early morning. He heard the noise from the elephant during the night and was sure the elephant shouldn't be too far away. He was right. We did see the desert elephant which was really around 10~15 min. walk from our site.

During the drive, we found a group of desert elephants again. Quite lucky!


May 14 , 2009
Namib Desert Tours (Namib Desert + Moon Landscape + Welsitschia + Khan River Valley ) by Turnstone Tour: N$950/pp (park fee, lunch, drinks, hotel pick-up incl.)This was definitely the highlight during our stay in Namibia. We had a very informative day with Mr. Bruno Nebe from Turnstone Tours. Mr. Bruno has great knowledge not only about the Namib Desert, floras, mineral, geography, animals, the natural environment as well as the country, the land, and the people. Besides the tour, I believe that we all learned one important thing from him: respect the nature.

Before our journey, we’ve seen many photos of the “little five” in Namib Desert. Be honest, we all wanted to have closer look at those little lovely creatures. When we were in the Dune area, we mentioned this wish.

Mr. Nebe said that he could dig the sands for meters deep, scare the little animals and then finally dig them out of the sands just for showing us. After that, the little frightened animals might need 5~10 min. to recover after we release them. He would do it in case we insisted, but he would prefer to leave the little animals alone and not to disturb them if he had choice.

His talk did remind us something we forgot.

He taught us how to distinguish the foot prints on the sands and how to track. When he saw some, he pointed them out to us. Yes, we decided not to disturb the little five, six, and eight…etc, and let them be happy by hiding themselves under the cool sands.

Around 1pm, we had delicious lunch in a middle of nowhere. That was fantastic great! Fresh mixed salad with tasty dressing, home made bread (my husband and friends were so happy. They missed “real bread” for long time), home made chicken liver paste, warm and delicious lasagnes, warm apple pie, coffee, fresh fruits and of course all kind of drinks. We made a joke that it was the best meal we’ve had since we were in Namibia for 2 weeks.

By the way, Mr. Nebe spoke perfect German and English. He fulfilled everyone’s need.


May 15 , 2009
Marine cruise by Laramon Tours: N$450/pp (lunch, drink, Swakopmund-Walvis Bay transportation incl.)Laramon Tours has both big and small boats. For choosing big or small boat, it depends on how many passengers will be on board. We had boarded on a big boat because there were around 20 passengers on that day.

The boat was clean, comfortable and really big enough for 20 people. The seafood platter, fresh oysters, drinks (alcohol and non-alcohol) were all great. We only missed the nice weather and right season.

As what I mentioned in my first post, it was a wrong season. The sea birds, pelicans, sea dogs were there all year round without question, but only few dorsal fins of dolphins were seen. Probably we expect too much or we just didn’t have luck?

Actually, the captains from all boats (doesn’t matter which tour company) worked together to find the dolphins (or even something bigger). They kept in touch with each others and informed others about the latest situation by radio. Seeing dolphins (or even whales) needs right day and some luck.


May 21, 2009
San Guided Walk by Intu Afrika Kalahari Game Reserve: N$245/pp

It was not worth to spend the time and money for it. Please refer to my first post.






After experience these tours, I realized the motivation of the guide/ranger was the key point of the whole tour. I could feel they were just doing their jobs and waiting for the tips or they were part of the land and willing to give you something.

For example, I could feel the strong emotion from some of them: the guides from Okonjima Lodge and Waterberg Wilderness (I forgot their names, sorry!), Mr. Jeroen Verhoef from Aabadi Mountain Camp and Mr. Bruno Nebe from Turnstone Tour. I could feel they did love the animals, the land, the environment and everything around them. The talked/explained not only about what we saw at that moment, but also what we didn’t see/think in the past, at present and in the future. Those are something we can’t get from the guide book.

Joining tours does cost money, but tours with motivated companions will bring you something which is more valuable than money.

Good luck!

Shireen

Hallo Shireen,

You are really right when you explain what makes the difference when you join a tour.
The guide is the key for the success. He must be motivated and knowledgeable. I joined also a Tour with Turnstone Tours: the Sandwich Harbour Tour. Our guide, a german called Werner, was really great! He was up to date concerning the nature, the land, the animals.

Concerning he lions in Okonjima, we slept at the Main Camp and we were not able to see any! We did not camp. However during the night we heard them roaring very close to our room. So don't worry. Okonjima treats everybody equally.

Annick

Hallo Annick,

Nice to know we have the same feelings about the tour guide! And also thanks for sharing your experience in Okonjima. You comfort me quite much!

viele Gruesse



Shireen